An arctic wind blows through my door .. leaves and other debris scatter across the floor. Big wave season has begun. Although I don’t actually surf them ..they’re definitely major league ..I feel the anticipation. I sit on the beach and watch 25-foot swells pound the shore ..starting from Aleutian storms ..they move swiftly down the coast ..falling like dominoes on beaches from Mavericks to Todos Santos. I feel the energy crackling on my skin ..and the rhythm beating in my veins. I must have been a sea creature in a past life. I have a friend who's a big wave surfer. He tells me that he hears his rational brain screaming: “No Fucking Way” ..while feeling a rush, coming from some other part of his brain ..reminding him what an awesome experience it is to blow those apprehensions away. I think he’s a junkie ..caught in a cycle where icy adrenaline turns into fluid exhilaration.
5 comments:
"a cycle of transformation that turns chilling adrenaline into fluid exhilaration"... way cool... nothing mo better than the "feel" of nature, taking her rapid turn... I like these posts that you make about the ocean... they seem to reflect a depth in you, akin to the depth of the ocean :0
Thank you ..! I’ve spent most of my life on the coast ..so it’s in my blood. When I post about the ocean ..it’s what’s happening. The summer season starts at the beginning of October and goes through December. That’s why all the blogging about the beach.
What you do mean, the summer season starts in October and ends in December? Is the water actually warmer there, then? My husband was from the San Diego area, he said the water was always cold in the ocean, there.
That’s definitely true in San Diego ..and the water is even warmer there. In Santa Barbara, the fog season lasts until October ..then the offshore winds come and blow it away .. you don’t feel the wind ..but you do feel warm air and the skies are like crystal clear. Muy bonito. A wetsuit is recommended.
Aha... thanks for clearing that up. He enjoyed warm weather all year... I can't imagine how nice it must've been. I never got to experience it.
Stay warm, my friend.
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