Plugged in

It is my belief that a dedicated surfer knows more about the ocean than any well-trained oceanographer. It’s not because the surfer is more intelligent or anything ..it’s because he’s ‘plugged into’ the conditions of the ocean ..they make a bigger difference to him. Now, I’m no Joe-great surfer ..but I bet you I can see more shades of blue in the ocean than say ..a farmer from Nebraska. Living on the West Coast has fashioned my perception ..and tuned my senses to the signals of the region. It’s subliminal. I can generally tell what a day at the beach will be like ..the night before. For instance, when I hear trees creaking at night ..I know we’re in for cool dry weather the next day ..the ocean water will be greenish-blue and the surf will be fair somewhere farther up the coast ..like around El Capitan. If I can hear the sound of sea lions barking at night ..it means it’ll be a warm, windless day tomorrow ..and generally good surf up and down the coast ..from Rincon to Refugio. On the other hand ..indigo-blue skies ..sharp stars ..and a clear line on the horizon ..tell me there’s going to be an offshore flow ..making the air crisp ..the water glassy ..and the surf tubular ..a most excellent day to dodge work. I like an offshore flow.